Alright y’all. I had planned to write this post to explain how we created our DIY wood stove heat shield with lots of helpful photos. But, I can’t find the photos of the back of the heat shield for the life of me and George would kill me if I asked him to take it off the wall. So, wordy explanations are going to have to do!
When I was first looking for heat shields to protect our wall, all of the options I found were either very expensive or ugly or both. We were going to use an older Fisher model stove that we had been gifted, but found out that to be safe, the stove would have to stick way too far our into our living room. The wood stove we eventually bought does not require a heat shield. Most of the newer models don’t require one. But when our chimney was inspected and fixed by a pro, he did leave a nasty cement ring around the outside of the pipe. So, a heat shield seemed like a good way to cover that up, get a little wall protection and create a focal point for the room.
I had seen wood stove heat shields made with tin ceiling tiles before, but I also knew there were some regulations that we wanted to adhere to. (Again, we don’t NEED the heat shield, but we pretty much stuck with the regulations.) For example, heat shields need to be 1 inch off the ground and have a one inch air barrier for air behind them. They should also be made out of noncombustible material, so no wood heat shields. 🙂 For more information on regulations, check with your local chimney professional and your insurance company.
Anyway, while Googling, as ya do, I found this company, American Tin Ceilings. They have a wide selection of tin ceiling tile, so I picked out the tile I liked the most (the black matte nail up pattern #1), ordered it, and they shipped it right to me. They even have a calculator on their site that helps you figure out how much tile you need. With shipping, my tile cost about $250.
So the easy part was over. After the tile arrived, George got to work. He went to the hardware store and bought aluminum metal flat bars and copper couplings. The flat bars will attach the tin ceiling tiles together and the copper couplings will be used to keep the ceiling tiles off the wall for air flow.
He then cut the flat bars and created an aluminum flat bar grid for the back of the tiles by measuring how tall and wide the tiles would be when put together. This creates a sturdy backing for the tiles. To create the grid, he drilled holes through the front of the tiles and the grid to connect the tiles together. After the tiles and frame were connected with machine screws and nuts, we held the tile structure loosely against the wall.
We then took the copper couplings and held them against the wall, behind the structure. (You can see how the completed project looks from the side in the photo above.) George drilled pilot holes through the structure, then ran drywall screws through the middle of the couplings, thus attaching them to the wall. This allows for a 1″ air barrier behind the wood stove heat shield. See the photos below for how it looks against the wall.
This isn’t the easiest project to replicate (or even explain!) but I think it was well-worth it to create a modern, one-of-a-kind heat shield.
Feel free to leave any questions in the comments. I know this may be difficult to understand without pictures.